Here are some of our favorite climbing spots for bouldering, sport climbing, and trad climbing. Acid Castle Description: Acid Castle's is the closest outdoor rock climbing to Ashland. There are a lot of routes, 66 named routes, but there is also a lot of poison oak. This is a great place to get some evening time bouldering in after work. Some of the routes are fairly exposed to the steep hill side, so having good spotters is a key. Some of the routes are pretty short, but quite a few are over 10 feet in height, so a crash pad is recommended. Skill Level: V0 to V4 Rock Type: Granite Getting There: From AOS go north on Siskiyou Blvd. Take a left on Granite St. Take a right on Nutley, left on Alnutt, and then a right on Strawberry Lane. Stay on Strawberry until you come to Hitt Road on your left. There will be a green gate. Park somewhere, preferably not blocking any driveways, and don't forget to set your emergency brake! Walk around the gate and down Hitt road a little way's until you see the trail head. Additional Info: Watch out for Poison Oak! Emigrant Lake Description: Within a 20 minute drive from Ashland Emigrant offers some fun climbing variety of climbing. You can even do some deep water free climbing! Well, early in the year while the water level is still high enough. The access to the climbing is quick and easy, and the climbing is fun. There are some harder routes, and if you don't feel like leading any routes there is an easy scramble to the top and the anchors are easily accessible for setting top ropes. I like climbing at Emigrant when I just need to get outdoors but don't have all day. Skill Level: 5.7 to 5.12 Rock Type: Volcanic Sandstone Getting There: Additional Info: From AOS go south on Siskiyou Blvd. Take a left on Ashland St. Stay on Ashland st until it turns into Hwy 66. Stay on Hwy 66 for about 3 miles and you will see the sign for Emigrant Lake on your left. Turn into the lake. Stay on this road until you pass the dam and reach the RV camping. You will see a pullout on the backside of the RV camping loop. Hike along the lake until you reach the rocks. Rattle Snake Description: Rattle Snake offers the most options for climbing in Southern Oregon. However, there a not a whole lot of easy climbs, but an easy scramble allows access to anchor spots for the majority of routes. There are also a couple or routes the offer a bit longer climbing then the other local spots. The hike is pretty short and not very strenuous, but the it is highly recommended to have a guide book. Oregon Rock Climbing Volume 3 The Rogue is hands down the best guide book for the area, and it will come in handy for finding the craig as well as climbing. Skill Level: 5.8 to 5.13a Rock Type: Welded Tuff Getting There: Rattle Snake is definitely tucked away, and unless you've been there a couple times it can be hard to find. From AOS head north on I-5. Take exit #30 for Crater Lake Hwy. Head north on Hwy 62. A few miles north of Shady Cove is going to be Trail. Take a left on Hwy 227. Here is where it starts to get fun. Three mile up 227 you will take a left on Trail Creek West Fork road. You should be heading west at this time. After crossing the creek take a left on the first dirt road. In about a .25mi the road will split. Take the left. In just over a mile follow the road to the right. In .5mi the road will split again, and you want to stay left. You will pass a Rock Quarry on your right. After the quarry start looking for an available pullout to park in. The trail head should be fairly obvious. Remember to leave your bread crumbs along the way so you can find your way back to the hwy. Additional Info: Watch out for the area's name sake! Smith Rocks Description: So much can be said about Smith Rocks. It is after all the birth place of sport climbing in Northern America. Some of the most classic sport climbs are located at Smith Rocks. It's location in the high dessert can make for some extreme weather, but that does not hold the crowds away. If you are planning on going to Smith on a weekend be prepared to either get up early and beat everyone to the craig or wait your turn. Despite the crowds there is almost endless options for sport and trad climbing. There is the option to camp directly at Smith for a small fee, however you can also camp a few miles away for free. I like to camp for free and then mountain bike to and from the craig. There are climbs that rise over 600 feet, but primarily the routes are predominantly single pitch. An notable aspect about the single pitch climbs at Smith, is that they are long. Some of the single pitch climbs will require a 70 meter rope, so make sure your know what your getting into. Also, if you are planning on trying to climb all the routes at Smith you will need a few years because there is over 1,400 of them. The best guide book out there for Smith is Climbers Guide to Smith Rocks, but also be sure to check out the website for Smith Rocks for any additional information and to check out their webcam. Skill Level: 5.1 to 5.14+ Rock Type: Tuff and Basalt Getting There: From AOS go north on I-5. Take exit #30 and head north towards Crater Lake on hwy 62. At Union Creek hwy 62 turns into hwy 230. Stay on 230 until it T's into hwy 138. Take a right on hwy 138 and remain on it until it T's into hwy 97. Take a left on hwy 97. Stay on hwy 97 through Bend and Redmond. After Redmond you will come to Terrebonne. There will be signs, but you will be taking a right B ave which will turn into Smith Rock Way. Take a left on 1st, and then another left on Crooked River Drive. Additional Info: As you are going threw Bend you have to stop at Pizza Mondo for the best slice in the state! There is a drinking fountain down by the craig, but it can get very hot during the summer months and some of the climbs can take you pretty far away from the faucet, so make sure you pack enough water with you. Greensprings Description: the Greensprings crag is a classic climbing location located southeast of Ashland that has a plethora of fun climbs and a good variety of terrain and difficulty. The lower tier of basalt columns is roughly 90 feet tall and divided into three walls – left, middle, and right. Climbing is done mostly on the lower columned tier, out of respect for the landowner. Climbs average about 45 feet. The rock quality is considered good to very good, and there are even several crack climbs that require gear and are considered true classics! Skill Level: Climbs range from 5.5 – 5.12b. Rock Type: Basalt Getting There: There: From Ashland, head southeast on N. Main St towards Lithia Way, heading out of town. Then you will take a slight left at E. Main St, followed by a left at Ashland St/Green Springs Hwy/OR-66. Continue for 13.7 miles, and then turn right around the left corner, down Tyler Creek Rd. The climbing area is up the hill on your left, and the trail is a few hundred yards down Tyler Creek Rd. There is a clear pullout for parking on the right side of Tyler Creek Rd. Additional Info: Setting up top ropes from the top of the crag generally requires long slings and very careful footing – there is quite a lot of loose rock on top (Helmets!) The Greensprings Butte is also located on private property, so be respectful. Most routes are established first on lead. The routes at the crag are well-bolted, but some do require gear to safely climb – refer to Greg Orton’s Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 3: The Rogue for more detailed route info, and come prepared! Rabbit Ears Description: Oregon’s Rabbit Ears is an intrusive volcanic plug, the remnants of a long dormant volcano. The summit of the west ear rises to 5,600 feet. Both ears are around 400 feet from bottom to top, and 20 unique routes can be found within the area. In some areas the rock quality is poor, but generally it is of good to very good quality. Some climbs require a mix of gear, and something can be found for every type of climber! Skill Level: 5.5 – 5.11a Rock Type: Volcanic Andesite and Dacite Getting There: From Ashland, take I-5 North towards Medford. Take exit 30 onto Hwy 62-N towards Union Creek and Crater Lake National Park. After Union Creek, continue north past the Crater Lake turnoff on Hwy 230, taking the first left onto Forest Service Road 6510. This drive takes around 1.5 hours. Take FS-6510 to FS-6520, and then left onto FS-6515. Follow the signs towards Hershberger Mountain Lookout. Continue on FS-6515 past the 530 spur road. Rabbit Ears eventually becomes visible, about a mile and a half from the trailhead. When you reach the ridge top, park on the pull out to the right. The trail follows the ridge for a couple hundred feet to the base of the west ear. Additional Info: Be wary of placing Cams in volcanic rock. Double check your placements, and when possible, use your stoppers – make sure your pro is bomber! Also, seasonal closures are in effect every year to create nesting habitat for Peregrine Falcon – February 1st until two weeks after the young have fledged. The Forest Service will extend this closure if necessary. DO NOT violate this closure. Climbers in the area have a good relationship with the Forest Service, and we would like to keep it this way. Pilot Rock Description: Pilot Rock is a shallow intrusive rhyolitic volcano plug that sits on top of the Siskiyou. Loose columns and loose rock on top have limited most of the route development to only a small area on the south side, and two earlier routes on the southwest side. A trail leads from the Pacific Crest Trail to Pilot Rock’s west gully. The average route length is 275 feet, and all routes require a small mix of gear to complete. The three airy and exposed pitches of Magic Blocks (5.11a, FA Joe Chaves, 1998) remain a mental test piece for local climbers. There is plenty of loose rock - Wearing a helmet is highly recommended, and experience is essential. Climbing on Pilot Rock makes for a long, exciting day! Skill Level: Class III Scrambles, Routes 5.7 to 5.11 Rock Type: Columnar Basalt Getting There: Drive 8 miles from Ashland, south on Interstate 5. Take exit 6 and continue south on Highway 99 beyond the Mt. Ashland turnoff. Continue on Highway 99 for about 3 miles. Take a left on Pilot Rock Road (BLM 40-2E-33) as Highway 99 starts to descend to the south. Follow Pilot Rock Road until you reach a pullout on the right, and a rock barrier across the road. Pack up and hike the remaining access road until you reach an earthen roadblock and the Pacific Crest Trail. Then hike several hundred feet east along the Pacific Crest Trail, turning right onto a well-worn 10 foot wide trail that continues on along the ridge top to Pilot Rock. Additional Info: Climbing on Pilot Rock’s columns has inherent risks. Columns should be evaluated each season for stability, as columns that are stable one season may not be stable in the following season. Rock fall is a constant danger, so be aware! Bring snacks, plenty of water, and your game face! Castle Crags Description: Castle Crags Wilderness is part of the Shasta National Forest, located in northern California between the towns of Dunsmuir and Castella. The area is easily accessed from Interstate 5, but climbing at Castle Crags is most definitely a backcountry experience. Some climbs can be approached in under an hour, but most require at least a four-to-five mile roundtrip hike, which can take almost four hours. The approaches are pleasant, however, (albeit hot in summer months) and the hardest hiking is located closer to the bottom of various routes. Here you can expect a scramble through steep gullies and bushwhacks through clumps of manzanita bushes. There are no sport climbs at Castle Crags; old-fashioned trad climbing is the order of the day. Top ropes are not an option. There are a few good cracks, but the majority of the routes are face climbs in the 5.6 to 5.10 ranges. Climbs are from one to six pitches. Most of the dangerous cruxes are protected with bolts, but don’t underestimate the ratings in Castle Crags. If you’re climbing a 5.10 route you need to be a solid 5.10 leader, comfortable with long runouts on easier pitches. Skill Level: 5.6 to 5.11c Rock Type: Granite Getting There: From Ashland, drive south on 1-5. Castle Crags is located in northern California, half a mile west of 1-5, 10 minutes south of Mt. Shasta City, and an hour north of Redding. There is an obvious exit for Castle Crags State Park off of the Interstate. The approach trail leaves from the scenic overlook inside the state park. Additional Info: The approach gains 1,500 feet of elevation in 2.5 miles. Camping is available at the State Park located adjacent to Interstate 5. The fee is $12 off-season and $15 for peak season and holidays. Bring a full standard rack of gear, including stoppers and cams. This can be bolstered with micro nuts or a small selection of TCUs. Bring extra webbing and a knife, as fixed slings should not be trusted and always replaced at belays. A standard rack of quickdraws (10-12) and plenty of medium-to-long slings should also be packed in. Bring plenty of water! This is especially important in the summer season. Most of all, remember to have fun. Climbing at the Castle Crags is an incredible and memorable experience. |
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