Here are some of the best peaks to summit in the Cascades between Northern California and Southern Washington. There are quite a few more summit's that will be making it to this Mount Shasta Description: Mount Shasta is the second largest mountain in California, and it is one of the tallest free-standing mountains on the west coast. Shasta's summit is almost 10,000 feet higher then the surrounding terrain. There are multiple routes that you can use to summit, but the most popular routes trail head starts at Bunny Flat's. The elevation at Bunny Flats is approximately 7,000 feet above sea level, which make the summit about 7 miles and 7,000 feet from the trail head. To reach the summit the route takes you up to Horse Camp, Helen Lake, Red Banks, and Misery Hill. The route is fairly straight forward, and from Memorial day on the traffic level is high. There are guided trips up Shasta through the Shasta Mountain Guides. But, for the do-it-yourselfer's I would recommend picking up The MT. Shasta Book to ensure a successful summit and trip. You can camp either at the Bunny Flat trail head, Horse Camp, or Helen Lake. Where you camp is totally dependent on your groups agenda, but I like to camp at Bunny Flat and push the summit from there. Difficulty: Moderate to Advanced Distant & Elevation: Approximately 7,000 feet of elevation gain, and distance is dependent on the route you take. Getting There: From AOS get on I-5 heading south. Stay on I-5 until you get to the city of Mount Shasta. Take the main Mount Shasta exit. The off-ramp will go up and over I-5. Continue going straight on that road. You will go through two stop lights and then the road will turn into Everitt Memorial Hwy. Bunny Flat trail head is about 11 miles outside of town. Additional Info: If you do not plan on climbing/hiking above 10,000 feet then you do not have to register with the Forest Service or pay the summit fee. Also, be prepared to pack out what you pack in and you "personal" waste. Don't forget to bring you camera because the view from 14,000 feet is pretty incredible. Lastly, spring skiing on Mount Shast is EPIC! Mount Thielsen Description: Mt Thielsen at 9182 feet is not the tallest Cascade Volcano but the summit pinnacle makes this an aesthetic and exciting mountain to climb as the summit pinnacle looms above imposingly. Weather can be a major factor on Thielsen. Overall Thielsen is a great experience and a beautiful climb! The slopes on Thielsen are prime slopes for avalanches, check weather, use sound judgment and make good decisions. The climb, generally the safest route up in the winter (or summer for that matter), is along the rib between the NW and SW bowls. Follow the marked trail (blue diamonds on trees) The best climbing time depends dramatically on the conditions and the participants. In order to summit it is recommended to rope up, so plan and pack accordingly. For a good reference book on Theilsen check out 100 Classic Hikes in Southern Oregon Difficulty: Hard Distant & Elevation: na Getting There: Get on I-5 Northbound, towards Medford. Exit I-5 at Exit 30, Crater Lake Hwy/OR-62. Take Crater Lake Hwy NE towards Union Creek, approximately 55 miles. Hwy 62 becomes Hwy 230/ Diamond Lake Hwy. Follow Hwy 230 for approximately 24 miles to a junction with Hwy 138. Go Left at the junction. Follow Hwy 138 approximately 2 miles to signed Trailhead for Mt Thielsen on the right. Additional Info: During the winter sno-Park permits are required. (Available at AOS: $22 annual/ $5 day) Mount Mcloughlin Description: Depending on the time of year you attempt to summit McLoughlin it can either be a fairly leasurly hike or a serious endeavor. Regardless, it will be an awesome day, and if the weather is cooperative you will be treated with amazing views. Difficulty: Intermediate to advanced Distant & Elevation: Trail Head: 5,600ft; Summit: 9,495ft; Vertical rise: 3,895ft; Trail Distance: 11mi. Getting There: From AOS go north on I5 and take the Crater Lake Highway North Medford exit. Continue out Crater Lake Highway until you come to HWY 140. You want to go East towards Klamath Falls Oregon. Next you will turn left, North, on Four Mile Lake Road #3650. Don't get to comfortable on this road because you will be looking for forest service road 3361, which you will be turning left onto. The trail head is a quick quarter mile down the road from where you turn onto fr #3361. Additional Info: During the winter sno-Park permits are required. (Available at AOS: $22 annual/ $5 day) Don't forget your camera because there are endless photo options of lakes, rock formations, and forest. Mount Jefferson Description: Mt. Jefferson is a still active stratovolcano, located about 105 miles east of Corvallis, OR. It last erupted around 15,000 years ago. It was named by the Lewis & Clark expedition for President Thomas Jefferson. There are multiple routes to take to the 10,497-foot summit, from the west and east, as well as the north. The most popular include the Whitewater glacier from the east (grade II, glacier travel, and class IV rock on summit pinnacle) and the Jefferson Park glacier (grade III, glacier travel, and 5.2 rock on summit pinnacle). Regardless of which way you summit Mt. Jefferson, the approaches are long (much longer than Mt. Shasta, Mt. Hood, etc). The best time to summit is in late spring. Most climbers make a high camp and summit early in the morning, tackling the rock summit pinnacle before mid-day. Mt. Jefferson’s terrain above the treeline involves moderate to steep glacier travel, as well as rock climbing on the summit pinnacle (Class IV scrambling and low Class 5 climbing on some routes). The traverse before the summit push involves high angle crampon work, and must be taken carefully, as fall potential is very high. Difficulty: Advanced Distant & Elevation: Summit: 10,497 feet Getting There: From Ashland, take Highway 66 heading east about 63 miles to Klamath Falls. Once in Klamath Falls, take Highway 97 northbound to Bend, OR. The drive takes around three and a half hours (137 miles). Several miles north of Bend, Highway 97 crosses Highway 20. Take Highway 20 heading northwest to Sisters, OR. From Sisters, continue driving northwest on Highway 20 for about 26 miles until the Santiam Junction. Then take Highway 22 heading north. Many access roads to the Mt. Jefferson Wilderness are found off of Highway 22, depending on the route you plan to climb. Around sixteen miles north from the Santiam Junction, Road 2243 heads east towards Whitewater Lake, providing a trailhead with good access to Jefferson Park (north of Mt. Jefferson). Additional Info: Climbing Mt. Jefferson is a serious task. Climbers must have a well-versed repertoire of mountaineering skills, and must come prepared. Wilderness permits are required for overnight camping, and some areas of the Wilderness have additional restrictions. More info can be found through the U.S. Forest Service. Mount Hood Description: Mt. Hood is located approximately 50 miles east of Portland, Oregon. It is one of the most climbed glaciated peaks in North America. It last erupted in 1907, and has several active fumaroles still, but is considered a dormant volcano. The relatively low altitude (11,239 ft) easy approach, and short climbing distance to the summit attract many inexperienced climbers. These factors account for the mountains’ abundance of climbing accidents every year. Severe weather can, however, move in quickly. Skiers and snowboarders can descend directly from the summit! Mt. Hood has many different routes! The most popular routes are approached from the Timberline Lodge, (south side) fairly high up the mountain. The north face of Mt. Hood includes mixed rock/ice alpine routes, as well as some challenging rock climbs, and is significantly more difficult. Approaches other than from Timberline Lodge include the Cooper Spur, Cathedral Ridge, and Illumination Saddle. These three other zones of the mountain include routes graded Class III to Class V, and can be much more technically challenging. The South Side/Hogsback and West Crater Rim routes are both approached from Timberline Lodge, and are graded Class II, with 35-40 degree ice and snow up top. These routes are the most popular on Mt. Hood, and during busy weekends bottlenecks can occur on upper portions of the mountain. The South Side/Hogsback route ascends about 5,300 feet from the Lodge, past the Palmer Ski Lift, and then to the upper flanks of the mountain. It takes roughly eight hours, depending on fitness and weather conditions. Difficulty: Intermediate to Advanced Distant & Elevation: Summit: 11,239 ft Getting There: From Ashland, get on I-5 heading north. Drive north for about 270 miles. Before Tualatin, take exit 288 to I-205N (heading towards I-84/The Dalles/Seattle). After about 12 miles, take Highway 212 heading east. This highway eventually merges with Mt. Hood Hwy 26. Take 26 heading east. After about 33 miles, take a slight left on Timberline Hwy, and continue on to the Timberline Lodge. Additional Info: Be wary of the fumaroles higher up the mountain, as they can create oxygenless pockets that have asphyxiated unsuspecting climbers. Fall danger seems miniscule, but if a fall occurs above one of these crevasses or fumaroles, the consequences can be fatal. Weather moves in quickly on Mt. Hood, so be prepared, and have flawless knowledge of the route you intend to follow! Wear a helmet, especially in warm conditions, as rock fall danger is higher. Most of all? Have fun! South Sister Description: Standing at 10,358 feet, South Sister is the highest of the Three Sisters. The peak is located west of Bend, Oregon. South Sister is also the youngest volcano of the Three Sisters, geologically speaking. The most popular type of ascent is not considered very technical, though an ice axe, crampons, and helmet are still considered standard equipment. A climber can view the neighboring Sisters to the north, as well as Broken Top and Mt. Bachelor to the southeast. On a very clear day, Mount Hood, Mount Adams, and Mount Thielsen may even be visible from the summit. Routes up the south side are the most popular in the summer, though a tolerance for scree is necessary. Winter climbing exists, and routes from the north side and east side, such as the North Face Couloir and the Prouty Glacier, can provide for a great adventure. Difficulty: Moderate Distant & Elevation: 12.4 miles round trip, 5,000 feet of elevation gain. Getting There: From Ashland, drive north on I-5 to Medford, and take exit 30. Take Crater Lake Highway OR-62 northeast about 55 miles. Continue on to OR-230 heading east about 24 miles. Turn right on to OR-138 east for 18 or so miles, and take a left on Highway 97 North. Drive north about 75 miles to Bend. From Bend, drive west on the Cascade Lakes Highway for 27 miles. Continue past the Mt. Bachelor Ski Area for 6.5 miles, and then turn left at Devils Lake Campground. The sign for the South Sisters Trailhead is at the end of the campground parking lot, just to the right of the restrooms. Additional Info: A Northwest Forest Pass permit is required to park at the trailhead. The permit costs $5 per car/ day. Annual passes are available for $30, and are good for all national forests in Oregon and Washington. Maximum group size 12 people. You need a snow park permit to park in the winter. Free permits are required to enter the wilderness, but these can be filled out at the trailhead. Mount Adams Description: Mount Adams is a potentially active stratovolcano in the eastern Cascades. It is the second highest mountain in Washington - east of Mt. Saint Helens and north of Mt. Hood. The summit stands at 12,276 feet. Roughly 60% of the mountain lies in the Mount Adams Wilderness, while the east side has been returned to the Yakima Indian nation. The most popular route to the summit is the South Spur Route, which starts at the Cold Springs Campground. This is a moderate climb over easy, sometimes steep snow. There are many routes to the summit, however, and some can provide more of a mountaineer’s challenge. Notables include the also fairly moderate North Ridge (Class 2), located between the Adams and Lava Glaciers, and the Mazama Glacier, from the Bird Creek Approach. Distant & Elevation: 11.4 miles round trip from the Cold Springs Campground, 6,676 feet of elevation gain. Getting There: From Ashland, head north on I-5 to Portland. From Portland, take 1-84, exit 300, heading east. This turns into Columbia River Highway. After about 62 miles, take exit 64 for Mt. Hood Highway towards OR-35. Turn left at Button Bridge Rd./Mt. Hood Highway. Cross the Hood River Bridge, and enter Washington. After a mile or so, turn left at Lewis and Clark Highway/WA-14 W. Continue driving for a mile and a half, and turn right at Washington 141 Alternative, which heads north. Drive on WA-141 N for about 20 miles, and you will reach the town of Trout Lake, WA. Take a right on to the Mt. Adams Recreation Road (SR-17). Branch off on to FR-80, FR-8040, and then FR-80405000, which has signs for the "South Climb". In winter this approach requires skis or snowshoes, as the road is snow-covered and not recommended for vehicles. Additional Info: For climbing above 7,000 feet there is a per-person fee-based pass that has a graduated cost, depending on when you climb ($15 weekend/$10 weekday). If you wish to climb any of the routes that start in the Yakima Indian Reservation (Mazama Glacier, Klickitat Glacier, The Castle, or Rusk Glacier Headwall, etc.) and want to start your hike from Bird Creek Meadows, you will need a Yakima Indian Reservation Tract-D tribal-use permit. Both permits are available from the Mount Adams Ranger District office. Climbing season from the Yakima Indian Reservation is restricted from July 1 to October 1 for climbers who are not a part of the Yakima Indian Nation. Bring human waste pack-out bags, and enough climbing gear for your route! Ice axe, crampons, and helmet are all standard equipment, and must not be forgotten! Enjoy your climb. |
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