Mount Thielsen
The highest peak between the South Sister and Mount McLoughlin, Thielsen's spire-like summit dominates the skyline. During storms, it's height and steep summit attract so much lightning that it has been nicknamed "The Lightning Rod of the Cascades". Despite the mountains impressive appearance, summiting Mount Thielsen only requires a 4th class scramble to the summit spire with the summit itself being 4th to easy 5th class depending on the route. The most moderate route to the summit is the West Ridge accessed from the Mt. Thielsen Trailhead.
Distance & Elevation Gain
5 miles & 3764 ft. The first 4 miles and 2000 ft of elevation are on a trail which starts at the Mt Thielsen Trailhead. At this point, the Thielsen trail intersects the Pacific Crest Trail. The remaining mile and 1700' of elevation are on a climbers trail up the west ridge to the summit spire.
Terrain
Part of the High Cascades, Mount Thielsen, at 9,184 ft, is a prominent feature of the area. It is considered an extinct shield volcano. A shield volcano is generally large and low in profile, forming from fluid lava flows. However, because it's lava flows stopped around 250,000 years ago, glaciers have eroded the peak to its current form.
Directions & Map:
- From AOS, Head north on I-5 towards Medford.
- Take Exit 30, and merge onto Crater Lake Hwy/OR-62.
- Continue on Crater Lake Hwy NE towards Union Creek for approximately 55 miles.
- Hwy 62 becomes Hwy 230/ Diamond Lake Hwy. Follow Hwy 230 for approximately 24 miles to a junction with Hwy 138.
- Go left at the junction.
- Follow Hwy 138 approximately 1.5 miles, where you'll see a sign for the Mt Thielsen trailhead on the right. A Sno Park permit is required to park here Nov 1st-April 30th.
Recommended Equipment
Having the right gear can make or break a trip, especially if something bad happens. Below is a general overview of the gear needed for climbing this mountain. Make sure to adjust this list based on which route you are doing, your strategy for climbing the route, the strength and experience of your group, and what the weather will be like during the climb. An easy way to remember what to pack is to break it down into groups of gear you need to have for the climb.
- Sleeping
- Sleeping Bag
- Sleeping Pad
- Tent
- Eating
- Food
- Cup, Bowl, Spoon
- Stove and fuel
- Cooking Pot
- Lighter
- Layers
- Baselayer top and bottom (wool or synthetic)
- 3 pairs socks (one on your feet, one drying, and one for sleeping in)
- Softshell top and bottom (fleece top and nylon pants can work but are not as effective)
- Insulating top (synthetic fill works best but a heavy fleece can work)
- Hardshell top and bottom
- Down Jacket (for camp and breaks)
- 3 pairs of gloves (light, medium, and heavy weight - liners don't count!)
- Warm Hat
- Balaclava or neck gaiter
- Climbing - most of the items in this catagory do you little good if you don't know how to properly use them!
- Backpack
- Mountaineering Boots
- Crampons
- Iceaxe
- Helmet
- Harness
- Rope
- Rescue Rack appropriate for the current conditions
- Map & Compass
- Tour Plan
- Avalanche Gear
- Avalanche Beacon
- Shovel
- Probe
- Knowledge and practice using this gear
- A partner who also has this gear and knows how to use it
- A printout of current avalanche conditions from the local avalanche center
- Emergency Gear
- First Aid Kit
- Repair Kit (think about how your gear could break and then how to fix it!)
- Phone Numbers to local search & rescue
- Directions to closest hospital
- Misc.
- Headlamp with extra batteries
- Sunscreen
- Glacier Glasses
- Lip balm
- Pocket knife
- Camera
- Down Booties / Camp Shoes
Food & Water
For water, 2L-3L per person per day is recommended just for drinking. Snow can be a great source of water on the mountain as long as you're careful about it and have the means to melt enough of it. Collect only clean looking white snow. We all know not to use the yellow snow but also don't use the red/pink snow. It is a type of algae that will do a number on your stomach.
As for food, several small snacks throughout the day are recommended. Big meals are fun but bog you down. Save the big meals for camp. Small snacks allow for a continual flow of energy to your body. For your snacks, try to balance sugars, fats, proteins, and carbs so your body is continually fueled. This helps reduce crashes in energy during the day.
Additional Info
- Topo Map: Mount Thielsen, Or
- Trailhead Lat/Long: 43° 8' 46.02" N x 122° 7' 39.13" W
- Trailhead elevation: 5,420ft
- PCT Crossing Lat/Long: 43° 9' 12.48" N x 122° 4' 49.77" W
- PCT Crossing elevation: 7,360ft
- Summit Lat/Long: 43° 9' 10.2" N x 122° 3' 59.5" W
- Summit elevation: 9,184ft
Resources & Links
Weather
Click Here for the NOAA weather forcast for this area.
