Smith Rocks Rock Climbing | Ashland Outdoor Store

Smith Rock

So much can be said about Smith Rock. It is the birthplace of sport climbing in Northern America, and is home to some of climbing's most classic sport climbs. Its location in the high dessert can make for some extreme weather, but that doesn't keep the crowds away. If you're planning to visit Smith on a weekend, be prepared to either get up early and beat everyone to the crag or wait your turn once there. However, with over 1,400 routes to choose from, you'll never be at a loss for something to climb. You can camp at Smith for a small fee, or you can camp a few miles away for free. Most of the routes are single pitch, though at Smith single pitch routes can run quite long. Some of these climbs will require a 70 meter rope, so make sure you bring a guide book and know a route before you climb it. While there are many Smith Rock guidebooks to choose from, our favorite is Climbers Guide to Smith Rocks.

Rock Type:

Tuff and Basalt

Skill Level:

5.1 to 5.14+

Getting There & Map:

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From AOS head north on I-5. Take exit #30 and head north towards Crater Lake on Hwy 62.

At Union Creek, Hwy 62 turns into Hwy 230. Stay on 230 until it T's into Hwy 138.

Take a right onto Hwy 138 and keep going until 138 T's into Hwy 97. Take a left on Hwy 97.

Stay on Hwy 97 through Bend and Redmond. After Redmond you’ll come to Terrebonne. There will be signs for different areas. Continue on, and take a right onto B Ave. which will turn into Smith Rock Way. Take a left on 1st, and then another left on Crooked River Drive.

Recommended Equipment

35-45L Backpack
1-2L of Water
Snacks and/or Lunch
Headlamp
Helmet
Belay Parka - Down, GTX, Primaloft, fleece, etc
60-70 meter dynamic rope (Many of the routes at Smith require a 70m cord)
Harness
Climbing Shoes
Chalk Bag
ATC or similar Belay Device
Personal Anchor System
8+ Locking Carabiners
10+ Wiregate Carabiners
12+ Quickdraws
60, 120, and 240cm slings

Food & Water

Bring some snacks and lunch, and at least 2-3L of water!

Additional Info

If you're into traditional climbing, also bring a selection of passive protection, from small to large stoppers, and Cams #0.4 - #3. Keep extra food, water, stove, etc in the car.

There is a drinking fountain down by the crag, but bring plenty of water anyways. Depending on where you end up climbing you might not have access to the fountain. If you're hungry after a long day of climbing, drive into Bend and head to Pizza Mondo for the best slice in Central Oregon!

Resources & Links

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