Rabbit Ears
Oregon's Rabbit Ears is an intrusive volcanic plug, the remnants of a long dormant volcano. The summit of the west ear rises to 5,600 feet. Both ears are around 400 feet tall, and there are over 20 unique routes on the two ears. Overall, the rock quality is very good, though there are a few areas with poor-quality rock. Some climbs require a mix of gear, and something can be found for every type of climber!
Rock Type:
Volcanic Andesite and Dacite
Skill Level:
5.5 - 5.11a
Getting There & Map:
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From Ashland, take I-5 North towards Medford. Take exit 30 onto Hwy 62-N towards Union Creek and Crater Lake National Park.
After Union Creek, continue north past the Crater Lake turnoff on Hwy 230, and take the first left onto Forest Service Road 6510. This drive takes around 1.5 hours.
Take FS-6510 to FS-6520, and then turn left onto FS-6515. Follow the signs towards Hershberger Mountain Lookout. Continue on FS-6515 past the 530 Spur Road.
Rabbit Ears eventually becomes visible about a mile and a half from the trailhead. When you reach the ridge top, park on the pullout to your right. The trail follows the ridge for a couple hundred feet to the base of the west ear.
Recommended Equipment
- 35-45L Backpack
- 1-2L of Water
- Snacks and/or Lunch
- Headlamp
- Helmet
- Belay Parka - Down, GTX, Primaloft, fleece, etc
- 60-70 meter dynamic rope
- Harness
- Climbing Shoes
- Chalk Bag
- ATC or similar Belay Device
- Personal Anchor System
- 8+ Locking Carabiners
- 10+ Wiregate Carabiners
- 12+ Quickdraws
- 60, 120, and 240cm slings
Food & Water
Bring some snacks and lunch, and at least 1-2L of water!
Additional Info
Bring a selection of passive protection, from small to large stoppers, and also bring Cams #0.4 - #3.
Be wary of placing cams in volcanic rock. Double check your placements, and when possible, use your stoppers. Also, seasonal closures are in effect every year to create nesting habitat for Peregrine Falcons - February 1st until two weeks after the young have fledged. The Forest Service will extend this closure if necessary. DO NOT violate this closure. Climbers in the area have a good relationship with the Forest Service, and we hope to keep it this way.
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