Pilot Rock
Pilot Rock is a shallow, intrusive, rhyolitic volcano plug sitting on top of Siskiyou Pass. Loose columns and loose rock on top have restricted most route development to a small area on the south side, and two routes on the southwest side. A trail leads from the Pacific Crest Trail to Pilot Rock's west gully. The average route length is 275 feet, and all routes require a small mix of gear to complete. The three airy, exposed pitches of Magic Blocks (5.11a, FA Joe Chaves, 1998) remain a mental test piece for local climbers. There's plenty of loose rock - Wearing a helmet is highly recommended, and experience is essential. Climbing on Pilot Rock makes for a long, exciting day!
Rock Type:
Columnar Basalt
Skill Level:
Class III Scrambles, Routes 5.7 to 5.11
Getting There & Map:
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From AOS head southeast on Siskiyou Blvd. Follow the road as it merges with I-5 South. Continue on I-5 for eight miles.
Take exit 6 and continue south on Highway 99 past the Mt. Ashland turnoff. Take a left on Pilot Rock Road (BLM 40-2E-33) as Highway 99 starts to descend to the south.
Follow Pilot Rock Road until you see a pullout on the right, and a rock barrier across the road.
Park, pack up and hike the remaining access road until you reach an earthen roadblock and the Pacific Crest Trail. Then hike several hundred feet east along the Pacific Crest Trail, turning right onto a well-worn 10 foot wide trail that continues on along the ridge top to Pilot Rock.
Recommended Equipment
- Helmet
- 35-45L Backpack
- 1-2L of Water
- Snacks and/or Lunch
- Warm Jacket in off-season - Fleece, Down, Primaloft, etc
- Headlamp
- 60 meter dynamic rope
- Harness
- Climbing Shoes
- Chalk Bag
- ATC or similar Belay Device
- Personal Anchor System
- 6+ Locking Carabiners
- 8+ Wiregate Carabiners
- 12+ Quickdraws
- 60, 120, and 240cm slings
Food & Water
Bring some snacks or lunch, and 1-2L of water!
Additional Info
Bring a full selection of gear for the routes at Pilot Rock - both Stoppers and Cams. Placements are few, but some quality ones exist. Be prepared for the occasional runout between bolts and so-so placements. The rock quality can range from very choosy to reasonably good - but evaluate as you climb, since columns can be hollow, loose, etc, and their stability changes from year to year. Magic Blocks remains an area test-piece since it's first ascent, and prospective climbers will find out why when they reach the top of the first pitch!
Climbing on Pilot Rock's columns is inherently risky. It is recommended that you climb with a competent partner. Columns should be evaluated each season for stability, as columns that are stable one season may not be stable in the following season. Rock fall is a constant danger, so be aware! Bring snacks and plenty of water!
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