Greensprings
The Greensprings crag is a classic climbing area located southeast of Ashland. It contains some fun climbs and a good variety of terrain and difficulty. The lower tier of basalt columns is roughly 90 feet tall and divided into three walls - left, middle, and right. Most of the climbing is found on the lower columned tier. Climbs are, on average, about 45 feet long. The rock quality is considered very good, and there are several crack climbs that require gear and are considered true classics.
Rock Type:
Basalt
Skill Level:
5.5 - 5.12b
Getting There & Map:
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From Ashland, head southeast on N. Main St towards Lithia Way.
Take a slight left onto E. Main St, then a left at Ashland St./Greensprings Hwy/OR-66.
Continue for 13.7 miles, and then turn right around the left corner down Tyler Creek Rd.
The climbing area is up the hill on your left, and the trail is a few hundred yards down Tyler Creek Rd. There is a clear pullout for parking on the right side of Tyler Creek Rd.
Recommended Equipment
- 35-45L Backpack
- 1-2L of Water
- Snacks and/or Lunch
- 60 meter dynamic rope
- Harness
- Climbing Shoes
- Chalk Bag
- ATC or similar Belay Device
- Personal Anchor System
- 6+ Locking Carabiners
- 4+ Wiregate Carabiners
- 10+ Quickdraws
- 60, 120, and 240cm slings (smaller for extending gear placements, longer for topropes)
- (Note: Setting up topropes safely at Greensprings' walls requires fairly long slings or tubular webbing. Also, be careful on top of the first apron - plenty of loose rock can make setting of anchors tricky when not on lead.)
Food & Water
Bring some snacks and lunch, and 1-2L of water!
Additional Info
If you're wanting to climb one of the several cracks at Greensprings, come well prepared with Cams #0.5, #0.75, #1, #2 and #3. Also bring a full size run of small to medium stoppers. Several of the lines take only small stoppers at the top. Razor Crack can be finished on several #3 Camalots, or very small stoppers in a small seam (sort of awkward). Enjoy, and make sure to be aware of falling rocks - they always land on the picnic rock, so wear your helmet.
Setting up top ropes from the top of the crag generally requires long slings and very careful footing - there is quite a lot of loose rock up there. Greensprings is located on private property, so be respectful of the land and clean up after yourself. Most routes are established first on lead. The routes at the crag are well-bolted, but some do require gear to safely climb - refer to Greg Orton's Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 3: The Rogue for more detailed route info, and arrive prepared with a helmet and plenty of water.
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