Castle Crags
Castle Crags Wilderness is part of the Shasta National Forest, located in northern California between the towns of Dunsmuir and Castella. The area is easily accessed from Interstate 5, but climbing at Castle Crags is definitely a backcountry experience. Some climbs can be approached in under an hour, but most require at least a four-to-five mile roundtrip hike, which can take almost four hours. The approaches are pleasant, however, (albeit hot in summer months) and the hardest hiking is located closer to the bottom of various routes. Here you can expect a scramble through steep gullies and bushwhacks through clumps of manzanita bushes. There are no sport climbs at Castle Crags, only old-fashioned trad climbing. Top ropes are not an option. There are a few good cracks, but most of the routes are face climbs in the 5.6 to 5.10 ranges. Climbs are from one to six pitches. Most of the dangerous cruxes are protected with bolts, but don't underestimate the ratings in Castle Crags. If you're climbing a 5.10 route you need to be a solid 5.10 leader.
Rock Type:
Granite
Skill Level:
5.6 to 5.11c
Getting There & Map:
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From Ashland, drive south on 1-5.
There is an obvious exit for Castle Crags State Park off of the Interstate.
The approach trail leaves from the scenic overlook inside the state park.
Castle Crags is located in northern California, half a mile west of 1-5, ten minutes south of Mt. Shasta City, and an hour north of Redding.
Recommended Equipment
- 35-45L Backpack
- 1-2L of Water
- Snacks and/or Lunch
- Headlamp
- Helmet
- Belay Parka - Down, GTX, Primaloft, fleece, etc
- 60-70 meter dynamic rope
- Harness
- Climbing Shoes
- Chalk Bag
- ATC or similar Belay Device
- Personal Anchor System
- 8+ Locking Carabiners
- 10+ Wiregate Carabiners
- 12+ Quickdraws
- 60, 120, and 240cm slings
Food & Water
Bring some snacks and lunch, and at least 1-2L of water!
Additional Info
Castle Crags has a large selection of climbs - some are bolted, but don't count on this - the majority of climbs require gear, and some have runouts that are long enough to make you climb carefully. Bring plenty of slings, not only to extend gear placements, but because a good amount of the protection on the most popular routes is natural gear.
The approach gains 1,500 feet of elevation in 2.5 miles. Camping is available at the state park located next to I-5. The fee is $12 off-season and $15 for peak season and holidays. Bring a full standard rack of gear, including stoppers and cams. This can be bolstered with micro nuts or a small selection of TCUs. Bring extra webbing and a knife, as fixed slings should not be trusted and always replaced at belays. A standard rack of quickdraws (10-12) and plenty of medium-to-long slings should also be packed. Bring plenty of water! This is especially important in the summer season. Most of all, remember to have fun. Climbing at Castle Crags is an incredible and memorable experience.
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